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• Having a new bathroom tiled?
• Tiling a kitchen wall splashback

The following article is in response to all the people that are actually considering having new tiling for for the first time round and for those of you that want a decent job done.

Read on and you can spare yourself lots of anguish and desperation (and some money too).

It is now quite often when I go to price a tiling job that I have to advise people on some problem on carrying out the work.  The typical hotspots are:

• bath out of level
• fitted showers
• shower trays and baths with excessive gap between these and the walls
• lipped shower trays not set in
• shower unit/controls at the wrong height
• radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing
• old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed

How can the above hotspots interfere with the tiling you may ask.  Well, it goes like this:

“Bath out of level”
One of the first things that I do when starting a bathroom wall tile installation, is to put my long spirit level on and along the perimeter of the bath. What I found often is that the bath is badly out of level, sometimes dropping towards the plug hole and on fewer occasions dropping opposite to the plug hole. Of all of the baths I have seen to date I have not yet seen a bath that has not got a natural internal fall in order to drain the water, so I cannot see a valid reason for not having the top of the bath level.  It must be said though, that occasionally, some baths are simply badly built.  No much thought has been given for accommodating the tiles

If the tiles to be installed are a medium to large size and have no strong pattern, then is not a problem for the tiler. He/she would just need to trim the tiles accordingly to the fall but if the level is too much out you can have problem when installing a bath/shower screen onto the bath edge.
if on the other hand you are installing mosaic or tiles with lines or strong patterns, the tiling will look awful as even the smallest level difference along the bath length will be very noticeable.  When dealing with mosaic, doing cuts means more time and money.

“Fitted shower”
I is important to have the tiles to go behind the unit as this can avoid water penetration in the wall/s.  Some showers have the hot and cold pipes covered with a plate.  On these type of shower units tiling must be done before the unit is fitted as the tile can be drilled neatly to accommodate the pipe work; if not, the tiles will need to be cut in a way that will have to show an unsightly finish. If the plumber is fitting a new shower unit ask him/her to allow for the pipe work to protrude from the wall more than it is needed, then to wait for the tiling to be done before final installation. I have had situations where the shower has been fitted, without even allowing for the tile thickness between the cover plates and the wall.

“Shower trays and baths with excessive gap”
When installing baths or trays make sure to have very little gap from them to the walls otherwise you might end up using either too much silicone or having to install a bath trim.  I am not in favour of these bath/shower trims or tile beads as I have found the baths and trays can move downwards causing the trim to separate and capillary action allowing water to draw into the walls.  If you find that the bath or tray is not fitting tight to the walls it is likely that it is due to the right angled wall not being square to the other or that the wall is bulging.  It is standard practice to slightly bed in the bath/tray into the wall; just enough for the gap to close.  This also helps “hold” the bath/tray in place. Many times you would only need to channel one wall only. This is when the internal corner of  the wall is not square. Again, only set the tray into the wall until the gap closes.  Care must be taken not to inset the bath too much as you might have problem with the taps distance to the wall, hence preventing clear access on opening and closing them.  Also, pay attention to the shower tray as if you inset this too much, you might have problems later fitting the shower screen.

“Lipped shower trays not set in”
Lipped showers are those trays that have an upstand along 2 or more sides.
These trays are supposed to be containing the water within the tray and avoiding water leakage into the adjoining walls.  In theory this is great but I have carried out a number of tiling repairs due to this type of tray. The reason why there has been some problem with this type of tray is because of poor plumbing installation. On a few occasions the tray was placed against the walls (not inset into the wall). On other occasions the fitter did not inset the tray enough into the walls. I have noticed that there usually is a considerable lateral movement once I step on the tray during tile installation.  This causes the tray’s upright lip to move (from inside outwards) towards the tile and doing so, de-bonding the first row of tiles and  in turn allowing water to penetrate in the wall, causing problems.  The only way not to have any problem with this type of tray is to make sure that the tray is set in the wall more than the lateral movement allows. Care must be taken not to go too deep in the wall as the shower screen might not fit inside the tray.

“Shower unit/controls at the wrong height”
A common problem that can be avoided is the placing of the shower controls height onto the walls. As it is important for the user to have the controls at the right height one overlooked situation is the height of the tile border.  If there is no border then it’s not a problem but if you are considering installing a tile border, then get the tiler to relay with the plumber as you don’t want to spoil the border being interrupted by the controls.  If the border is thicker than the main tiles then you can have more problems with the control’s cover plates not seating flush, also if the border is thicker than the tiles the tiler will need to know where the shower/bath screen will be going exactly as that part of the border where the screen will cover must not be tiled or the screen won’t seat flush.

“Radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing”
On situations where basin, towel rail radiators and toilet are fitted, this is where a lot of time will need to be spent as it (unless removed) will require to cut around these items (if possible).  Here if planned in advance the tiling would need to be carried out BEFORE the final plumbing installation. Reality is that many plumbers  want to get in and out as soon as possible not worrying about the tiling (after all, they are not doing it, are they!).  If  you are going to have the floor tiled then you MUST have the basin (pedestal), toilet pan and any surface mounted radiator OFF the floor and the plumbing already prepared for the new floor height.  If the existing floor is made of wood, then there is a big chance that the floor will go up around 1” - about 25 mm but can only be assessed during the estimate or quote.

“Old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed”
This is another thing overlooked.
You have planned your project for a long time, the workers get in to replace the old bathroom suite with the one you really wanted for a long time. They remove the first row of tiles abutting the old suite and install the new one. Job done.
 It is beyond belief that some people can do this. “The tiler can take the tiles off”.

It must be appreciated that removing tiles after a new bathroom suite has been installed is no easy task and  the risk of damage to it can be considerable. Also, at times, some sections of walls may need to be replaced or repaired according to the surface type and adhesive strength. Make sure that the tiles ARE removed prior to the new installation.
The same applies to kitchen installations.

Copyright Tile Master 2008
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Tiling a kitchen wall splashback

So, you have decided that you want to have a go at tiling.
I will give you some information on how to best to achieve your goal.

Before you start the tiling you will need some tools. These can be purchased from our sponsored links here.

Read all of this page before starting to tile

Preparation.
It is important that the area that is going to be tiled is flat, sound, clean and capable of holding the weight of the tiles, adhesive and grout. If the surface is dusty then brush it off as much as possible and then use a priming agent (making sure it is applied as directed on the product) so to seal the surfaces. Ask your supplier to make sure that the fixing material is suitable for the job. If you have existing tiles on the area to be tiled, you can tile over them by using the appropriate adhesive.  If the existing tiles are loose, you will have to remove them first and make good any holes by using plaster or sand and cement. You should never tile on top of 2 existing layers of tiles as the extra weight can bring the lot down.

Adhesives.
If you are fixing standard ceramic tiles on plaster or render walls you can usually use a ready mixed adhesive from a tub. There are two types of ready mixed adhesive that are commonly used: Class B .  This is suitable for domestic use in kitchens and bathrooms with limited shower use (although I prefer using it only for kitchens). The other one is Class AA and it is for heavy use on bathroom and communal showers.  As you would expect, there is a price difference between the two.

When using porcelain, marble, granite, other natural stone, glass, or fully vitrified tiles then check with the supplier that you are getting the right one for the job.  It is important to mention  what type of surface is going to be tiled.

Fixtures.
If you have a light pelmet fixed under the wall units, it would be better to have them removed and re fitted after the tiling has been done, so that the tile could be placed under rather than cutting around it; it will look a lot nicer.

Protection.
Make sure you protect the worktop, sink, hob and the rest of the surfaces  with dust sheets from being damaged by tiles, tools or from tile adhesive.  If you have a solid wood worktop make sure is protected, not only for adhesive spillage but also from water or grout otherwise it could stain.

Sizing up the tiles.
Before you do anything else check to see if you have the correct tiles, the correct amount of tiles and if you are using border tiles and/or inserts/decor tiles then check for size variations. This happens often. If there are size variations you will need to take this into account before deciding on what type of spacing is more aesthetically right. What can happen is that you may have started to tile the wall and have a 1.5 mm joint, then you put the border on top and the border being to big, will go out of alignment from the rest of the tiles. Take your time. Try to visualise all the tiles on the wall, as a finished job, then you can foresee any possible problems and avoid them.

Nearly ready to tile.
Have a look on the tile’s packaging to see if there are special recommendations for spacing the tiles. Different tiles will require different joint sizes. If you use standard ceramic wall tiles you could use 2 mm tile spacers and if you use rustic tiles, 5 - 10 mm  spacers.  All is relevant to the style and working size of the tiles.

Check for batch difference, and always open several boxes and use few tiles from each box. Check the worktops with a spirit level (Ideally one that is 120 cm or longer); see if the tops are level, if not you might need to space up the lowest section with tile spacers or cardboard.

If the base is too much out of level from one end to the other, then you will need to allow a full tile at the lowest point and then draw a level line at the top of this tile and any tiles that do not fit from the line down to the worktop, will need to be trimmed to size using a tile nippers or wet tile cutter. Many times when you try to draw the line you find that the sockets are in the way. If this happens then instead of using one tile at the lowest point, use two tiles, (one on top of the other and draw the level line at the top of the second tile) that usually works. Don’t forget to insert a tile spacer if you are using any. On rare occasions  you will need a laser level with a continuous projected line or a rotating laser level. This will nicely go around the obstacles.

What spreading trowel to use.
The thickness of the adhesive should be such that when the tile is in its final place, the adhesive should not squeeze out from the joints. Most times a trowel with 6 mm notches is fine and in general you can use tiles of 10 - 20 cm square.
If mosaic is to be installed then you might need a 3 mm notched trowel and if hand made tiles are to be used, then either use the 6 mm trowel and butter up the back of the tile, or use a 10 mm and above to suit the tiles. 
More adhesive will be required if the tiles have a deep profile or studs than if the back is smooth.  If there is adhesive squirting out from the tile joints, then use a thin flat screwdriver or Stanley knife to clear the joint and then use a damp cloth or sponge to clean the tiles. It is important not to have the adhesive getting in contact with natural stone (like marble) as it can stain it and then detract from its nice look.

Electrical points.
Undoubtedly you going to have to cut around electrical points (sockets, fuse spurs, cooker switches, light switches, etc.) Make sure that you know where the electric supply is and SWITCH IT OFF. You should be able to isolate the kitchen electricity so that you can still use other sockets around the house.

Tiling tools.
There are plenty of DIY tiling tools on the market that allow you to carry out tiling on a small budget.  If you are using thin ceramic tiles then a tiling starter kit can help you. Here is what you will need for an average job.

• Manual tile cutting machine
• Spirit level
• Tile nippers
• Tile file or sanding block
• Electric tile saw
• Protective goggles
• Electric extension lead
• Grouting Squeegee or float
• Protective gloves
• 2 Clean buckets
• Sponge
• Stanley knife
• Tile spacers
• Pencil or tile marker
• Mixing trowel
• spreading trowel
• Silicone shaping tool or kit
• Tile trim mitre box
• Ear protectors
• Dust masks

Tile Trims.
On some occasions it is necessary to add tile trims to the tiles.  An example of this is where two tiles meet on an external angle, where the tile edge will need protection from being chipped or if the walls are not plumb and it is required to have cuts at both extremities, or if the tiles have no glazed edges.
If you like or need tile trim, make sure you use the right size ones to fit the thickness of the tile. Some tiles do not require tile trims as they have their edge glazed, others will need trims. If you are painting the walls adjacent to the tiles, you could use the trims only on the external angles where the tiles meet and simply paint the unglazed edges on the top of the last tile.

Windows.
If one wall to be tiled has a window on it, find the middle point of the window sill and measure with the tiles to see how big the end cuts are.  If the end cuts are too small, offset the middle point to half tile and recheck. Start with the best measurement in order to achieve the best look ( you will want a cut that is bigger than 20 mm). Attention must be applied to not end up with opposite cuts too big (nearly full tile), as this would give you very small cuts on the front vertical of the window and hence can give you problems with either cutting the tiles or an even worse problem with alignment if the vertical edges are off plumb. Also check to see if the window sill is level.  Many times it isn’t and if that’s the case you can find the highest spot and when it comes to tile the front (between the worktop and the windowsill) start from there and when you are ready to tile the top of the sill, fill it level with adhesive. If the difference is too much, you might have to use two layers of tiles or make good with some plaster or cement before tiling.

First tile the front wall to the height needed and then cut and apply the tile trim (if required) on the perimeter and then tile the window sill and sides.

Grouting.
Once the tiles have been installed let them dry overnight before grouting.
You will need to buy the right grout for the tiles used:

• Thin joint grouts for small joints (some grout can be used from 1 - 5 mm)
• Wide joint grouts for joints of 3 -20 mm
• Standard grouts
• Flexible grouts (developed for porcelain tiles or where small movements are possible)
• Epoxy grouts for industrial and/or special hygiene areas         more...

Always read the manufacturer’s instructions on the usage and application.

Silicone.
Once the grout has dried you can apply the silicone sealant if needed.

You can buy silicone suitable for general use, this is usually of the “Acetoxy” type but if the tiles are made of natural stone  then you will need a silicone suitable for this (ask your supplier for a “Neutral Cure” silicone) as general silicone might stain some marble.
Silicone is a beast of its own.  You will need to be quick and careful with it!  It can be helpful if you purchase a silicone tool kit.

If you have to remove old silicone, help is at hand in the form of “silicone remover”. Easy to work with making it easier in removing decayed, mouldy silicone.

Hope this is clear and helpful to you. Happy tiling. :)

Copyright Tile Master 2007.
Please note: Tile Master assumes no liability for any problems and/or damage of any kind arising from this information.  Do this at your own risk.

Pointers

Steps to take

Start Tiling

At this point, do a tiling layout. It involves getting some of the tiles that you would like for your project and carefully laying a row on the floor (use a “straight edge” such as a long and straight piece of wood or a metal strip to line up the tiles). Mark all of the tile joints on the “straight edge” making sure that you use the correct tile spacers in between the tiles, if applicable.  Now you can easily check the tile marking from the “straight edge” against the width and height of your tile project and try to avoid unsightly cuts . Doing  this, will assure a better planning layout .  If the tiles are not equal size (rectangle instead of square) then you will need another “straight edge” as the vertical sizes will be different from the horizontal ones.

You should consider buying
 “Precision Tile.”

This is a cheap, easy and fun to use tile layout software for wall and floor tiling, aimed at DIY’s and professional tile setters alike.   Precision Tile is also useful for ceiling tiles.

To start tiling a kitchen wall (between the worktop and the bottom of the wall units), your ideal starting point would be lining up in the middle of the hob as this is in most cases the focal point.

if you are tiling on to existing tiles and find that the pencil won’t clearly mark the line, then use a tile marker. You can buy them in many colours. They are very handy to use when a tile needs to be cut with a water cooled electric tile cutter as the mark won’t disappear as soon the water splashes on to it)

Measure the horizontal space in between the two wall units and find the middle point.

Plumb the line down to the worktop using a sharpened pencil or tile marker

Spread the adhesive

Now that you have a centre point check how many tiles will fit from the line to the side of the wall unit. if you have a small gap left between the last full tile to the unit that is too big for grouting but too small to have a cut tile in it, then you have two choices. 1) You could try to increase or decrease the spaces between the tiles to make it fit or 2) you could offset the tiles so that the centre of the tile is in line with the marking on the wall (rather than having the edge of the tile to it).

Start spreading the tile adhesive on the wall using a trowel on an area not more than 0.5 m^2, making sure that you don’t cover up the centre line that you have drawn and start applying the tiles onto it.

Installing the tiles

Pick a few tiles from 3 different boxes and inspect for obvious damage or imperfections. Look for cracks, bad glaze, deep pinholes, tile deformation, wax on edges, uneven edges, pattern fading, bleeding etc...

If some tiles are chipped or bad they could still be used for some cuts where the remainder with the damage is not needed. So put these aside until you are sure you need to take them back (it can save you the hassle of driving back to the shop

When applying the tiles, fix them in rows rather than columns it will be easier.

Push the tile firmly on to the adhesive and give it a slight twist before aligning it to its final pace.

Insert the appropriate tile spacers before adding another tile.

If crosses are used then make it sure that the spacers are deep in the joint to allow space for the grout, otherwise use tile pegs which can be removed when the tiles have set.

Clean excess adhesive off the joint.

Electrical points and tile cutting

Find the mains electrical supply and TURN IT OFF,

Unscrew and gently pull the electrical point away from the wall, just enough to have the new tiles fitted behind it; keeping an eye on the wiring to see if any cable has or is detaching from its housing.  I find it best to use a small cordless screwdriver as sometimes there are more than ten electrical points to undo and many times the screws are very long.

If you think that any cable has detached then please call a qualified electrician to have it put right before you switch the power back on, unless you are competent enough to do it yourself.

If the electrical point will end up in the middle of the tile rather than the edges, then you will need to have the unit completely off the wall in order to have the tile under it. Sometimes this can be avoided on the planning stages.

When cutting tiles make sure you use safety gear such as ear defenders and dust masks.

Prolonged use of cutting tiles on a electric cutter, could cause hearing loss.  This can be even more, when cutting very hard tiles such as porcelain.

Beware of tile dust when either chiselling off old tiles or when cutting them as the dust will contain small particles of glass (from the glaze). 

Mark around the perimeter of all the electrical points sockets that need tiling using a pencil. Unscrew only the one socket you need to to cut the tiles around using a small flat edge screwdriver (do this only when you are ready to tile it).

Measure from the edge of the last full tile to the line by the electrical point and then allow an extra 3 to 4 mm so that the tile once fitted will go under the electrical point.  Make sure that you do not have the tile cut too big otherwise it will cover up the screw hole and it won’t be possible to screw the unit back on

Score the marked tiles using a manual tile cutter or a tile scorer.

f the cut is an L shape, then cut one line by using the electric tile saw and then snap the other scored line under the manual cutter.

If the cut is a |_| (U shape) then score the marked lines and by using the electric tile saw, first cut along the 2 vertical lines up to the horizontal line, then you could try nipping the waste piece off by holding the main tile on the edge of a workbench allowing the horizontal line of the tile to stick out 3 mm away from the workbench and with a pair of tile nippers remove the waste piece off downwards, or if the tile is to strong cut several more lines along the vertical of the waste piece, then remove the now weak waste pieces off, on the workbench.
Dry out the tile before fixing.

As soon as the tiles have been cut and fitted, screw the electrical point back on.  You may find that you’ll need longer socket screws. When you screw the electrical point back make sure to not over tighten the screws, in fact it is better to have it slightly loose until the adhesive is fully cured otherwise the tile can either break or shift out of position.

Grouting

If the surface to be grouted is solid (cement blocks, bricks covered with plaster ect..), and the tiles are standard ceramics you can use a water resistant cement based grout, this is easier to apply and clean off.

If any of the surfaces are subjected to some limited  movement, then you will either add some flexible additive to the grout or use a flexible grout.

Work in smaller sections if you are going to use the flexible type as it takes longer to clean

Mix the grout as per instructions on the bag.

Apply the grout on a small area using a squeegee, pushing the grout into the joints.

with the edge of the squeegee and applying medium pressure remove excess grout in a diagonal direction to the joints.

Let is set for approx. 10 minutes.

Using a damp sponge, rub the tiles in a rotating action.

Turn the sponge on the other side and continue to rub the grout off.  The idea is that you start to remove an amount o grout off the tiles but more importantly, you need to shape the grouting joint so that it looks sharp and straight. Do not apply force on doing this.

When you have finished with the step above, continue to a new section. allowing the previous section to haze off.

After you have carried out 3 - 4 sections, using new clean water go back to the first section and using a damp sponge wipe only once (from top to bottom. Use one side of the sponge for each wipe, overlapping the previous wipe.

Continue the above steps until you have finished.

Once dry (2 -3 hours) there will be very little if any dust left on the tiles, this will easily come off if wiped or rinsed.

Applying the silicone sealant

Do not apply the silicone soon after the tiles have been grouted as you will have problems with the grout coming off the joint.

Make sure that the surface to be siliconed is dry and dust free.  Get a small glass, put in it a few drops of “fairy liquid” and fill the rest with clean cold water; this will act as a lubricant later. Also get a toilet paper roll and start separating the tissues; you will need possibly 15 squares for each section that needs to be siliconed.  First wipe the edges to be siliconed with a couple of tissues (you will be surprised how dirty/dusty it is).

Cut the nozzle of the silicone at about 45 degree angle making sure that the hole is not too big (4 mm should be fine).
Start on a small section first so that you get used to it and then continue from that point on until you have finished.

DO NOT ALLOW ANY WATER TO BE IN CONTACT WITH THE END SECTION AS THE NEW SILICONE WILL NOT BOND WITH WET OR DAMP SILICONE

Generally you will need to shape and clean sections within 5 minutes otherwise the silicone might start setting (skimming).

Clean the surface to be siliconed.

Start applying the silicone making sure that you achieve full coverage for that section. 

If you have a silicone shaping tool then smooth and shape the silicone with it and at the same time clean the excess on one tissue of paper (you will need plenty).  If you do not have the tool then use the tip of either your index or middle finger to smooth it out and the nail side to cut and clean the overspilled silicone (in the pulling direction). 

At this point, If you need to add more silicone add some now and smooth / clean as before.

Now that you have shaped it and nearly cleaned it, dunk either the finger or tool in the glass of water with the “fairy liquid” solution and smooth and trim some more making sure that you stop short from the end by around 5 cm (do not allow water to reach to the end of the applied silicone as you need to add the next section to it. Silicone does not bond to wet areas).  Wipe the excess silicone on the paper tissue every time.

That’s It. Enjoy your tiling.

Precision Tile 3.0
Layout software for wall and floor tiling.
Easy to use CAD giving you a preview of what will the project look like before you even touch a tile.

Precision Tile Pro
This tile layout software is as easy to use as the standard version but aimed at the professional setter and it includes a Quote Generator. Watch the video for more features.